MY MOLAVE BONSAI MINI-FOREST

By: Norberto G. Betita

Through the years my Molave bonsai trees had multiplied as to become kind of a Molave bonsai mini-forest. Below are pictures of some of my Molave bonsai trees grown at our backyard. Molave (Vitex parviflora of the Verbenaceae family) is a medium sized tree which is very popular in our province of Surigao del Norte, Philippines generally used for timbers and furniture. It is known for its very durable and strong wood. Even the remains of its cuttings in the forest were made into beautiful drift wood furniture.
From my first specimen which I bought from a plant dealer, I have been able to plant more from cuttings. I have not been informed whether my first specimen was a seed tree or a cutting or was I really sure then whether cuttings will survive into beautiful bonsai trees until I tried it myself in the late 1990’s. This specie is one of a rock dweller. In my years of observation with my Molave bonsai, I found that these trees can live on rocks even without the soil, but through the years roots came out from the crevices of coral rocks where I have them planted as tiny specimens to the end that I was constrained to just put these rock dweller trees on a shallow pot with soil. Over the years of their growing some of the coral rocks were broken as a result of their enlarged trunks and roots inside.

The compound leaves of three leaflets can no longer be seen because of continued pruning. However, when I leave its branches to grow, particularly during rainy season, the branches grow taller and leaves become bigger and eventually the compound leaves are shown.

This Molave bonsai mini-forest are generally grown over rocks and some on very shallow pots with plain soil.

BUYING YOUR BONSAI TREE

by: Norberto Betita

As the living art of bonsai becomes globally popular, commercial bonsai trees and specimens are available even right at our doors. Plant peddlers are oftentimes seen in offices, sidewalks and even knocking on doors of residential houses to sell bonsai specimens. Determining the best specimen and choosing which tree is best especially for a beginner is crucial. Many are prone to choose the trees which had the seemingly beautiful new shoots and branches only to find later that the leaves are falling because the tender roots could not sufficiently provide the needed nutrients to sustain the growth of shoots and leaves. In many instances these trees would eventually shrivel and die. This had been my experience when I started my bonsai art hobby 21 years ago. 

As a starting bonsai hobbyist I never bought a collector’s kind of trees. Instead I buy very small specimens and try to experiment on them. As a neophyte I lost many of my specimens because of ignorance in buying and the dishonesty of the plant dealer. Anyway it did not cost me much because they are just small and newly planted trees and therefore cost less. It took me some years until I learned to choose the best specimen and even to grow my own from a cutting and from a seed plant.



I bought this Ficus Benjamina “too little” from the plant dealer about 15 years ago. Its original size was half my little finger. This is a miniature cultivar of the popular Ficus Benjamina with very small leaves and compact growth habit. This can be good for indoors in low, moderate or high lighting conditions. After I noticed its roots coming out of the pot drain, I bound the main root on a coral rock and transferred it into a bigger and deeper pot to let it grow and to produce more roots. As it started to grow bigger more aerial roots were also grown which functions as additional supplier of nutrients on the tree. I utilized the aerial roots to bind the small trunk and the rock. As the roots began to hold on the trunk and the rock I then transferred the tree on a shallow pot about two inches deep to expose the rock and the rest of the roots. The amount of soil that is on the pot is very minimal considering the presence of the rock. Whether this is a good buy, one should look at the dense roots as it is pulled from the pot. 

This Ficus Virens var.sublanceolata in the family of Moraceae is a large fig of three varieties which is a banyan from Northern Australia. It is likewise found in the rainforest of the Philippines. This specimen is actually a cutting from a very large epiphyte tree that grew on a mango tree. This is a root-over-rock style bonsai, but the rock was totally covered by the growing roots. I found this to be a very strong tree for bonsai. Although its leaves do not necessarily reduce; yet it looks beautiful as it changes its leaves altogether during summer or sunny days. Ordinarily its new shoots usually grow like that of a mango tree. The aerial roots grow very fast and so its trunk and branches. Cuts are also easily healed. Once, I found the main root rotten. I planned to cut it, but it would totally destroy the beauty so I just tried to leave it under the sun. After several months I noticed that the same root began to tighten and cure by itself. I found that new roots developed inside the rotten portion until it had grown enough to cover the decayed part. As it may be noted, this can be a good buy considering the condensed roots as shown.

A cutting from my older specimen of Hawaiian Umbrella Bonsai Tree (arboricola schefflera) this tree had grown so fast and produces more and stronger aerial roots almost to cover the coral rock where its main trunk sits. I purposely planted this as a gift for my grandson. This is only about four years old, yet with the fast growth of its aerial roots it looks much older. This is the tree variety that is recommended for inexperienced bonsai hobbyist and those who are not good at plants. This is one of the easiest plants to care for yet beautiful and generally trouble free evergreen. This can be one of a choice gift for a friend. This does well in lower or higher lighting condition. This is good for home and office. Although this specimen is young, yet it can be a good buy considering its strong compacted root buildup.

I acquired this Money Bonsai Trees---“Little Money” (pachira aquatica) while they were very small. These were originally three braided little trees which I eventually unbraid after I noticed that the other one is dying. I realized later that this variety is a very fast growing tree. It does not require much care although you need to check on it regularly because its new shoots easily grow taller. This is considered as a hardy tree and very tolerant of low light and dryness. This is also most popular among “Feng Shui” believers because as they say it creates positive energy---“Chi” or “Qi” and is believed to bring prosperity and wealth to the surroundings and a source of good luck aside from the fact that it decorates our homes. Although I am not a believer in “Feng Shui” yet I enjoyed so much caring for these twin trees. This twin specimen is surely a good buy. 

This Willow Leaf Ficus Bonsai Tree---Ficus Nerifolia/Salisafolia is one of my few specimens of this Ficus variety. I allowed its roots to grow in a deeper pot until the roots are long and large enough to hold the trunk as it sits on a pink marble stone. This tree is also known as Mexicana Ficus. Its leaves also resemble the popular weeping willow tree. This is good for indoors even in low, moderate of high lighting conditions. It is very resilient and strong and also fast growing. This is one specimen that can be a choice buy considering that its roots are already strong and old. Its survival is already tested.

ADVERSITY LESSON FROM A ROOT-ON-ROCK BONSAI

by: Norberto Betita

Rock-Dweller Molave Bonsai Tree

In the morning, July 26, 2014, I checked on my small “Tugas Bato” (Rock-Dweller) Molave tree bonsai which dropped from our terrace as a result of the strong winds during the fury of typhoon Glenda. This has been permanently kept at our veranda. Because of its very small size it has fallen several times into the ground during strong winds. I have this planted more than twelve years ago from a match-stick size specimen on a crevice over a 4”diameter dead coral rock. For the rock to stand, I flattened the base with cement with a single drain hole. For about five years this tiny tree had been solely dependent on the water and fertilizer that I poured into the rock. I sensed then that there were tiny fissures and slits inside the rock which held the water and fertilizer which made the tree to survive.

One day I discovered that tiny roots are formed from the base of the trunk and slowly grew over the rock. Other tiny roots also penetrated inside until it reached the base through the drain. As the tip of these roots reached the base of the rock, I thought that these might shrivel and die so I decided to plant it in a 6” square plastic pot. The style of the living art then became a combination of a root-on/over-rock bonsai. Since then as the roots touched the soil it has grown to match in size the trunk of the tree on top of the rock which is now ¾” in diameter. Recently I discovered that there are already roots that had gone out from the inside of the rock down into the soil and growing. I could not imagine how difficult for these roots to follow the tiny fracture inside until they found their way out and into the soil and helped the tree to survive. I do not understand and I wondered where they get the direction to follow those tiny crevices inside the rock on through the soil. They have neither heart nor brain. Perhaps the providence of God provided these little trees with instinctive powers to freely move and reach their destination---the soil.

Roots over and inside crevices of the rock

As I reflected on this observation I think of the many difficulties and adversities that we face daily in life and how quick for some of us to surrender. Yet while the tree has only the little rock and a small amount of soil, we have every possible resource that could help us resolve all our problems and difficulties. We are blessed with a brain and heart to think and decide on what to do. We have the world and the many opportunities that it provides. We have families, relatives, friends and neighbors who are ready to assist. And above all we have God to call upon when all else fail. Therefore I thought that if the tiny tree survived, we have no reason to flop and weaken. We have to learn the lesson that while this small rock-dweller-bonsai tree succeeded, we can all succeed even under the pressure of adversities.

Many lesson of life are learned as we observed the wonders of God’s creations around us. These experiences motivate us to even endure our own trials and adversities especially considering that we are the greatest of God’s creations.

OTHER FICUS MICROCARPA UNDER REGENERATION PRUNING

by: Norberto G. Betita

These three other specimens of Ficus Microcarpa have just undergone a regeneration pruning and are now in the process of rejuvenation. The bonsai trees are already fruit bearing when the regeneration pruning was made. It is expected that as new leaves and branches matures these will again bear fruit and ready to feed the birds at our backyard. 

17-18-year-old Ficus Microcarpa before pruning
root-over-rock style planted on a 1-inch deep plastic vase

 

Three weeks after pruning

Two months after pruning

17-18-year-old Ficus Microcarpa before pruning
root-over-rock style planted on a 2-inch deep concrete pot

Three weeks after pruning

Two months after pruning

12-year-old Ficus Microcarpa
root-over-rock style
planted on a 2-inch concrete pot

Two months after pruning

Three weeks after pruning

REGENERATION PRUNING FICUS MICROCARPA

By: Norberto Betita

figure 1 - Regeneration Pruning

Pruning a bonsai tree is usually undertaken to enhance the beauty of the miniature tree. It is done on a regular basis so that the form of the leaves and branches of the tree will be in accord with the normal shape when grown on natural ground. Raising a bonsai tree is actually just reinventing or recreating nature in a miniature setting, then recapturing the image of an old natural tree in an atmosphere of restraint and limitation in a close confinement---a shallow vase.

Regeneration pruning on the other hand is a process by which the bonsai tree is to be stripped of all leaves for the purpose of producing more branches and twigs, reduce the size of the leaves and replacing all the pest-ridden old leaves with new and freshly grown foliage. This process may be done at least every two years. However, in tropical countries like the Philippines, it can be done even on a yearly basis as may be needed. In my twenty years of personal experience as a bonsai hobbyist, I learned to appreciate the beauty that emerges on my bonsai trees as a result of regeneration pruning.

Figure 2 - Full-grown Ficus Microcarpa specimen

I usually do the regeneration pruning by cutting each leaf and the tip of each branch with a small scissor leaving at least half of the steam on the branch (see figure 1). This may be a very tedious process considering that you have to cut hundreds or even a thousand leaves in one bonsai specimen, especially for a Ficus Microcarpa (see figure 2). The remaining part of the steam of each leaf instigates a new shoot to sprout, and new smaller leaves then grow slowly (see figure 3). The more leaves in a branch, the more new twigs and branches will bud.  

In a month or two, depending on the feeding, the bonsai specimen is restored to its original form with enhanced beauty of new and shiny leaves. The crown of the tree then becomes thicker with more leaves, twigs, and branches (see figure 4). The small green and shiny leaves will remain smaller for months. However as it begun to feed again the succeeding leaves may grow a little larger, but usually not as large as the size of those raised on natural grounds.

figure 3 - New shoots and twigs growing after pruning

Ficus Microcarpa is such a wonderful variety among the Ficus family because of its thick and shiny leaves.  It is also called as Chinese Bayan or Malayan Banyan, or Indian Laurel and others. It can grow up to more than twenty meters in height. In my experience in the Philippines it bears fruit the whole year round (see figure 2). Birds feed from it, especially from my specimens which are situated on the terrace. It survives well in high-intensity of light. As bonsai specimens it prefers to be placed or located in as much light as possible and can endure full-days sunshine.

Figure 4 - The crown becomes thicker as more leaves grow

The danger of this tree as bonsai is the drowning of its roots, especially during rainy season. This is recognized by the regular falling of new or top leaves. But during summer they can grow with just a balance level of watering making sure that they are not totally dried up. It can grow in any type of soil provided the soil will be replaced as necessary. Fertilize as needed, at least twice a month during summer or once a month during rainy season.  

When these bonsai specimens are displayed at home or office make sure that they have to be inside only for at least three days or a maximum of one week. But these variety may be trained to be an indoor plant making sure that there is enough light in the area where it should be located. 

MY 33-YEAR-OLD MEGAPHYLL

by: Norberto Betita

Figure 1 (33-year-old Megaphyll)

Megaphylls are Pteridophytes or ferns and their allies in the plant family. Its foliage leaf has parallel vascular bundles through the lamina. The megaphylls of ferns are large pinnate leaves called fronds. It has neither flowers nor seeds. Its reproductive structure is composed of spores or microorganisms produced through a process called meiosis in sporangia or sporangial clusters. Spores are released from the parent plant to produce free-living gametophytes. These are generally carried into the air or by ants and thus produce new plants. This type of Megaphyll originates with a very tiny sprout and eventually grows into a large fern with leaves measuring more than one meter.

Figure 2 (33-year-old Megaphyll)

This specimen (figure 1 & 2) is one of my original collections. This was originally planted in 1981 as a landscaping plant in the grounds of The Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-Day Saints in Surigao City, Philippines. Generally ferns do not thrive under the heat of the sun. Through the years this plant had not grown beautifully because it was planted in an area under direct sunlight. One summer I found it abandoned with all leaves and aerial roots dried, and without any sign of life. It has no penetrating roots and it was so easy to pluck its body from the ground where it originally stood. I brought it home hoping to save it. I planted it first on a pot under the shade of a tree. With continued caring the plant begun to show a few fronds and eventually survived. Its black dried aerial roots accumulated through the years measuring about 2 feet remained to look ugly although the fern had already produced large leaves. So I decided to reduce the length of the body only to find out that within was kind of a very hard trunk which needed to be cut by a saw.  After cutting I noticed that the plant seemed to shrivel. I thought that the trunk must have been part of its source of life. Yet I tried to care and preserve it. It was only months after that it recovered. I then transferred it in a fabricated concrete stand. After fifteen years at home or a total of more than 33 years of its known existence (It was already fully grown when planted in 1981) it has survived. Another variety of fern binds its aerial roots.

Figure 3 (15-year-old Megaphyll)

Figure 4 (15-year-old-Megaphyll)

The small Megaphylls which I collected sprouting on trunks of Cycas Revoluta palms the same year, which I understand to be products of that original specimen, are now grown for fifteen years (see figures 3, 4, 5 & 6). Since I have these plants, more and more had grown in my backyard and they usually sprout on the base of my bonsai trees (see figures 7, 8 & 9). Many times I have to throw them as grass, because I only have a very small space to accommodate them.  Some of them I left to grow on the base of my Cycas Revoluta Bonsai specimens (se figures 10, 11 & 12).

Figure 5 (15-year-old Megaphyll)

Figure 6 (15-year-old Megaphyll)

Figure 7 (Several new sprouts of Megaphyll
on the base of "Tugas-bato" bonsai)

Figure 8 (New sprouts of Megaphyll
on the base of Acacia tree bonsai)

Figure 9 (New sprout of Megaphyll
on the base of Ficus Septica Bonsai)

Figure 10 (Megaphyll growing on the base
of a Cycas Revoluta bonsai)

Figure 11 (Megaphyll growing on the base
of a Cycas Revoluta bonsai)

Figure 12 (Megaphyll growing on
the base of Cycas Revoluta bonsai)

This Megaphyll variety is very good as house plant only that it would require care because it usually is used as havens for ants. However, it can easily be controlled by insect sprays.  Its beautiful large green leaves are really very ideal and attractive inside the home or office.

WILLOW LEAF FIG (FICUS SALICIFOLIA/FICUS NERIFOLIA)

by: Norberto Betita

Root-over-marble rock. Since 1999

In my bonsai hobby, I have learned to try to care for a Willow Leaf Ficus scientifically known as Ficus Salicifolia or Ficus Nerifolia. My original specimen was acquired as a very small commercial plant which was then grown in a shallow pot to be trained for a bonsai. I discovered that such a ficus variety seemed to be more resilient growing in a tropical environment as it is in the Philippines than all others of my ficus specimens. It is also one of the fastest growing varieties. During pruning I tried to experiment on growing a cutting from my original tree by plucking a branch where an aerial root grows. I found that this small branch were easily propagated and grown.

My oldest specimen is now more than fifteen years. I have been training ficus bonsai and other trees for already twenty years. I realized that the willow leaf ficus have very strong roots, particularly as concerns long exposure to heavy rains. I noticed that its roots are not easily decayed or drowned even when exposed to long wet pot soil during rainy season, unlike other ficus varieties. Its aerial roots are not easily subjected to insects or ants attacks.

Two trunks fused as one. Trained since 1998

During the last fifteen years I have discovered that its aerial roots can grow almost as big as its original trunk providing additional strength to the branches, especially when properly fed and cared for. I also tried a root-over-rock style and its roots held tight into the rock. Since my first commercial specimen, I should have raised more, but I do not have sufficient space for them to be properly sheltered. Most of my remaining few specimens is trained between thirteen to more than fifteen years. They are trained purely from small cuttings planted in a shallow pot. Inner roots can be left to grow without root-pruning and in due time it can grow bigger and longer to measure approximately one foot or more which could then be restyled for a root-over-rock specimen.

Three trunks fused since 1999

While it is recommended to conduct regeneration pruning at least two to three years, I do it almost every year during summer to reduce the size of its leaves. However, I noticed that after pruning the new leaves became smaller, but very soon the added numbers of new leaves are again back to its original size with longer twigs thereby increasing the size of the crown. They thrive very well even in the very hot sun, and just continue to produce new leaves all year round. Perhaps this is due to the tropical climate that we have in the Philippines. Sometimes twice in a year I have to prune the tree to reduce the crown to be in balance with the base.  

Single tree since 2000

Two of my remaining four specimens were fused; one with two trunks and another with three smaller trunks. Some of my specimens were already sold.

I so loved these plants and enjoyed caring for them and seeing them in my small backyard. I would recommend this variety for beginners because of its resilience that allows it to be grown even by neophyte hobbyist.